Ashamed of being Italian? - C'è da vergognarsi?

(sotto in Italiano)

Back to Italy for the holidays, I almost wished, I have stayed in Vienna. The Italian part of the journey was again a nightmare. Not only the Austrian train had to change route, making any connection (a mere "coincidence" in Italian) impossible, not only the Italian Railway reduced the number of trains on the last Saturday before Christmas, but, after waiting almost an hour in the poor and disorganized Mestre station (no escalators, a few lifts with long cues, when they work, short cover on the platform and rain drops in the connecting tunnel), my train was delayed and stopped at the following station, due to a rail problem. I had to ask my parents to pick me up. Not mentioning the young people trying to get into the train, before letting the other passengers getting off. It took 2 hrs for the last 30 km, with two trains and 20 minutes by car.

A few weeks ago, I attended an event at the Italian Embassy in Vienna, the day of the Italian scientists abroad. It was a great disappointment. I (and many other colleagues) had been invited by the FWF (Austrian Science Fund), which has financed our research, not by the Embassy. The Italian embassy ignored that we exist. The event began with 30 minutes delay, without any apology or explanation. Some people arrived even later. Disrespectful for those, who had to leave work in advance, to be on time. When I decided to go home, after feeling ashamed for additional minor faults, I found nobody in the cloakroom (I could have stolen something! I had to trespass the "gate" to retrieve my stuff) and the main door closed, without signs of where the actual exit was.

It is a long list of disappointments, including a past event at the embassy, the conferences I visited in Italy, the terrible service of the Italian Railway, the chaos at airports, the several strikes, the gaffes of our politicians... Honestly, I feel ashamed of being Italian.  However, there are and have been people, who make me proud of being Italian. Actually, I shouldn’t feel ashamed or proud to be Italian, because I didn’t choose to be Italian. I was born in Italy by fate. I cannot delete and forget my nationality, because Italian would always be my first language. Anyway, I can choose where I want to live and right now, it is not Italy.

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Bella idea tornare in Italia per le feste! Trenitalia ha fatto di tutto per farmi rimpiangere di non essere rimasta a Vienna a lavorare. Ha obbligato il treno austriaco a modificare percorso, ha eliminato dei treni nell'ultimo sabato prima di Natale, ha cambiato gli orari cancellando le poche e fortuite coincidenze prima possibili, etc. Come se ciò non bastasse, dopo quasi un'ora di attesa a Mestre, cambiano binario all'ultimo del treno prescelto, facendoci tutti correre per le scale con le pesanti valigie delle feste, per poi lasciare il treno fermo per un po' e farlo partire solo fino alla stazione successiva, causa guasto in linea. Ho rischiato di rimanere a ca. 30 km da casa dei miei fino a notte, dopo avere alle spalle già quasi 10 ore di viaggio ed essere partita alle 5:30 del mattino.

Prima ancora ne era successa un'altra. Sono andata alla giornata dei ricercatori italiani all'estero presso l'ambasciata italiana a Vienna, invitata dal FWF, un ente finanziatore austriaco, invece che dall'ambasciata stessa. La manifestazione è iniziata con mezz'ora di ritardo senza le minime scuse, vanificando la mia ora di permesso dal lavoro. Sorvolo sui dettagli, ma la ciliegina sulla torta è stata quando ho deciso di andare a casa: guardaroba abbandonato, ho dovuto scavalcare l'ostacolo messo a "porta" per recuperare le mie cose, e portone sbarrato, senza indicazioni sull'uscita laterale.

Ogni volta mi vergogno di essere italiana. Ci sarebbe una lista senza fine di arrabbiature e di figure barbine a livello internazionale. Peccato, perché ci sono parecchie figure del presente e del passato che invece mi fanno sentire orgogliosa di essere italiana. In realtà l'essere nata in Italia non è stata una mia scelta, è stato il caso, quindi non devo né essere orgogliosa né provare vergogna. Non posso cambiare la mia lingua madre. Posso, però, scegliere dove vivere, e al momento non è in Italia. 

Impressioni di Brno

Arrivando col treno in una stazioncina secondaria perché la centrale è chiusa per lavori, la prima cosa che si nota sono i palazzoni di cemento stile socialista, come abituata a vedere atterrando a Berlino. Due passi a piedi e ci si trova in un mega centro commerciale, aperto anche la domenica. La celebrazione del consumismo, in netto contrasto con il panorama a Plattenbau. Infine si raggiunge il centro storico, un gioiellino settecentesco che “puzza” di asburgico, come Bratislava. Sullo sfondo la fortezza dello Spielberg, usato come carcere dal XVI secolo e fino alla seconda guerra mondiale, ma per noi Italiani celebre grazie a “Le mie prigioni” di Silvio Pellico. In tutto questo spiccano i cechi, molti giovani, dinamici, un tantino sbadati, ma gentili, creativi, cordiali, che parlano poco l’inglese (e meno ancora il tedesco). Una gita domenicale inondata da un bel sole inaspettato e temperature invernali, tra mercatini di artigianato e cucina locali e negozi aperti pure l’Immacolata (al contrario di Vienna).

Dalla torre del vecchio municipio, sullo sfondo lo Spielberg e casermoni.

Ode al tempo di pensare

Per un bel po' di tempo non ho scritto nulla sul blog. Non avevo niente da dire? Non proprio. 

Volevo parlare di Venezia, mentre tutto il mondo aveva gli occhi su Piazza San Marco, per raccontare che  la città comprende anche isole ed aree meno note, ove vivono e lavorano persone in carne ed ossa, che non hanno dormito notti intere per cercare di salvare il salvabile dalle proprie abitazioni o attività commerciali. Come anche a Chioggia, sospesa sulla laguna come Venezia ma meno nota.

Il Pensatore alla VUB

Volevo parlare di amore, relazioni sociali e situazioni complicate, ispirata dall'opera "Ariodante" di Händel, vista alla Staatsoper, ove ci si rende che l'epoca in cui viviamo non è affatto differente da quelle che ci hanno preceduto dal punto di vista dei rapporti interpersonali. Causa di tutto è sempre la comunicazione carente, specialmente da parte maschile. 

Volevo parlare delle donne in geologia, il tema è tornato preponderantemente nella mia vita sia causa un'accesa discussione su una mailing list internazionale cui sono iscritta, sia dopo un'esperienza non proprio esaltante in un gruppo dominato da maschi, alcuni dei quali decisamente all'antica, nonostante la giovane età. Non ho ragione di lamentarmi, a parte un collega tedesco, tra le persone attorno a me e tra i miei capi non ho al momento persone tanto grette. Stupisce che ci sia ancora una tale diffusione di pregiudizi simili, specialmente nelle nuove generazioni, pure nordiche. 

Volevo parlare dell'ipocrisia nella lotta al cambiamento climatico, che si traduce in parole d'odio invece che in azioni e che demonizza la plastica senza rendersi conto che in molte situazione il suo uso (corretto) ci ha agevolato e talvolta salvato la vita. La mia personale ricetta sarebbe di eliminarne l'uso superfluo, di riciclare il possibile, di incentivare l'uso dei mezzi pubblici (più facile a Vienna, ove funzionano!) e della bici (a pedale tradizionale, così si risparmia pure sulla palestra), di ridurre il consumo di carne e di alimenti esotici (essere vegani può portare a cercare sostituti che non crescono alle nostre latitudini) e di risparmiarsi maledizioni ed accuse al prossimo, che contribuiscono solo a farci produrre più CO2 dalla rabbia.

sulla strada

Volevo parlare del diverso concetto di educazione e di rispetto a seconda della zona del mondo da cui si proviene, ispirata da un episodio osservato anni fa su un autobus, ove due ragazzi africani non si sono accorti di essere guardati male perché parlavano a voce alta e si tagliavano le unghie dei piedi, ma si sono prodigati ad aiutare un anziano confuso che invece noi europei abbiamo volutamente ignorato. Anche l'ennesimo viaggio in Giappone mi ha fornito spunti per riflettere sul concetto di educazione. Con tutta l'attenzione dei Giapponesi all'ambiente che ci circonda, ci sono degli usi che a noi sembrano maleducati, ma che per loro sono normali e viceversa (per loro succhiare il brodo e per noi soffiarsi il naso in pubblico).

Tutto ciò per mostrare che gli argomenti non mi sono mancati e non sempre "politically correct". Sono stati frutto di riflessioni nei momenti "morti", come durante un viaggio in metropolitana più lungo del solito (invece di immergersi nello smartphone) oppure aspettando che si sblocchi la porta della lavatrice a fine lavaggio. In realtà, lo scopo di questo post è proprio esaltare quei minuti in cui la mente vaga seguendo connessioni altrimenti difficili da immaginare, collegando fatti avvenuti e la formazione di una propria opinione a riguardo. Nel silenzio dell'isolamento volontario pure in mezzo alla folla. Lode al tempo di "oziare" nei propri pensieri! Tempo preziosissimo, purché resti un istante e non prenda il sopravvento sull'azione.

Two-and-a-half days in Pavia

There are events in everyone's life that trigger other events, with unexpected developments. The last February, I attended a conference in Italy because "invited" by a potential reviewer of one of my papers. There, I met a professor from Pavia, who had been the supervisor of a colleague. We got along immediately, and she was so kind to send a PhD student to Vienna first and to invite me to give a couple of lectures later, during the course of an outstanding young colleague of hers. This is the tale of this latter experience.

On the day of the departure, Vienna woke up in a thick fog that made me feeling back in Padua. The airport was in a chaos, many flights were cancelled or delayed. I was lucky, my flight had just 15 minutes delay. After landing in Milano Malpensa, the usual adventure with the Italian transportation began. I had spent time and energy trying to buy a train ticket while still in Vienna, but without any success. I even complained with Trenord. Nobody answered. In person, I bought the ticket in a counter, where only card payment were accepted, I had to stamp the ticket twice (once at the transfer), and ask around to know at which stop I had to get off, where was the stamper, etc. I was even asked from other tourists where to find something. This explains why we Italians are so friendly and talkative... we cannot survive without asking others.

Courtyard in the university main building

Upon arrival, I had the time to visit the city of Pavia. Very cute. Medieval town with churches, towers, castles, an old university, a famous bridge, pedestrian areas, and everywhere students and people enjoying the city. My hosts "cuddled" me and made the stay light and comfortable.  For the night, a hotel room was booked for me, where I found a huge bathroom, equipped among other things with a bidet (only in Italy) and a window (also rare abroad). Unfortunately, my room neighbors weren't so respectful and quite like in Austria, especially those having a small child, who cried until 11 pm. The breakfast was a dramatic time: which coffee should I take? The Americano tastes terribly and any other option is too dry and small for breakfast. Italians always complain about the coffee abroad, but they do not consider that foreigners might complain as well about our coffee...

The Cathedral.

On the first day, it was raining cats and dogs since the early morning. I decided to walk to the university, because I like the rain. Of course, walking on a rainy day is not the best choice... in Italy. I don't need to explain that. Just try, and if you survive and you are still dry, you are a hero! The building, where the department is, is ugly, terribly ugly, as ugly as the corresponding buildings in Brussels. However, the two days there were fantastic. I recovered the ability to talk Italian. The students seemed enthusiastic of my lectures. A private collector even brought some of the meteorites of his collection to show to the students how they actually look like. For dinner, my hosts took me to a nice restaurant, where I finally tasted the typical dish of the region, a delicious risotto with sausages. Before leaving again, I had to deal with the local bureaucracy. Austria is famous for bureaucracy, but Italian universities enjoy creating tons of new forms every year, with some quite silly questions for someone living abroad. 

The square, where the locals meet.

I went to Malpensa much earlier than the planned time of the flight, to meet a friend of mine, who drove an hour to see me again. We met in Vienna almost 10 years ago, but she later after a year. We met again in Scotland, where she was working, then in Brussels, when she visited me, and now in Italy, as she came back definitely some years ago. It was so nice seeing her again! Although a mom now, she didn't change at all. Finally, I flew back to Vienna, enjoying a beautiful red Moon and a clear sky. The train connection was perfect (Vienna!) and before midnight I was again in my bed.

Conclusions

1. This journey strengthen the feeling of being a foreigner in my own country, even though I know the language and the mentality. The fellow Italians are fashion addicted, posing around, they speak loud, constantly with the ears or the eyes or both on the cell phone, judging the others by their appearance. I felt an alien, with my jeans and sport jacket, with my funny taste for diluted coffee and the habit of eating early. I was happy to go back to Vienna, where nobody cares what I wear and where I feel respected as person, and not being treated special because woman. However, even though Vienna is "home" for me now, I know that I will never be Austrian. I'll always feel an alien everywhere I go. 

2. Some Italian scientists are outstanding, even better than many acclaimed foreign institutions, but they are left alone, fighting against many obstacles, due to the complicated bureaucracy and sometimes even due to envious or close-minded colleagues and managers. Interestingly, such scientists often have a period abroad in their CV... 

The best city in the world, is it true?

Several international rankings put Vienna at the first place for quality of living. This isn't new, Vienna has been elected the best city since years. Always at the top, together with Vancouver and a few other cities. Everyone, who visits Vienna, find the city magnificent, but living here is different. Is it really the best city in the world? I realized that it is true, after the comparison with Brussels, but it's my personal opinion. Now, the Kurier, a local newspaper, listed the ten reasons, why Vienna is truly the best worth living city. Here the points and my experience on them.

Karlskirche

1. Vienna is a city, not a village, but in a few minutes you are in the countryside. True. With the local transportation, you find yourself deep in the Wienerwald in a few minutes, or among vineyards, crops, lakes, etc. The city itself is quite green, with several parks and green areas along the Danube, enjoyable in any season and with any weather.

2. Open air events. True. Movies, concerts, plays, traditional events, dancing,... Many events are completely free, offered by the city.I like the classical music, and I'm here fully satisfied with the offer, but there are opportunities for rock-, jazz-, or pop-lovers, too.

3. Efficient public transportation network. True. Furthermore, since I'm in Vienna, I've never experienced a strike. Regular maintenance and a relatively good communication in case of a problem. Combined with a bike, you really don't need a car.

4. Tap water. The water is truly of high quality and with a delicious taste (of nothing). In many nations, this is a dream. Do not waste the tap water!

5. You can meet friends and talk all the night long without having to drink or eat something. True! Free banks and chairs are everywhere. The last week, I chatted for hours with a friend of mine, sitting on the steps in front of the KHM and enjoying one of last pretty warm sunset.

6. It's a safe city. True. At least for a city with almost 2 million of inhabitants, one third of them with another nationality than Austrian. There are crazy people and petty criminals, but a large city, full of tourists, could be much more dangerous, especially at night. Here, I take the subway in the middle of the night and... surprise, surprise, I safely go home.

7. It's a clean city. True. Not as clean as Tokyo, but pretty much for an European city.

8. Multicultural society. True, but... If it is true that the community is progressively more international, without losing the Austrian identity, it is also true that there is a general feeling of racism or at least of non-acceptance of any foreigner. Even if you Austrian, but coming from another Land, and you live all your life in Vienna, you'll never be considered "Wiener".

9. A metropolis with the lifestyle of a village. True. People are relaxed and efficient.

10. Ideal size for a city. Not too big, not too small. True. In 30-45 minutes, you can cross the whole city from one point to another. Of course, if you use the subway.

Not to mention the affordable cost of living, due to a "socialist" policy, providing housing for low income people at a reduced rate, discounts for the public transportation, cultural events completely free, training and education for any age in VHS for convenient prices,... I hope that it won't change in the future, because this contributes to make this city so nice to live in.

_._._._._

How would I judge Brussels, considering exactly these 10 points? Disclaimer: this is my personal opinion resulting from the past experience in that city.

The Atomium

1. Good. Brussels is also surrounded by a green girdle. The city parks are a bit sad, because crossed by congested roads and because the bad weather doesn't help.

2. Open air events were offered also in Brussels, but not as good and as many as in Vienna. Sometimes, the scheduled time forced people either to use their car or to take an (expensive) cab.

3. Public transportation. A disaster for a "small" city like Brussels. A few lines, bad schedule, buses locked in the regular traffic jams, broken cars of the subway, frequent strikes. If you own a car, it is even worse. No parking and hours spent in the traffic jam.

4. Tap water. Drinkable, safe, but full of limescale and with a terrible taste. I had to filter it also to cook a tea. Those filters were expensive and non environment-friendly.

5. Public meeting places. Plenty of them also in Brussels, but the weather could ruin many days. It was safer to meet in a restaurant or a Café, both more expensive than in Vienna.

6. It might be a relatively safe city, but the feeling was of fear, especially at night and in some locations.The night lighting was more than sufficient, but none was around, no police officers, in particular in hot points, such as the Gare du midi.

7. Brussels was filthy and smelling bad, at least in my experience. I saw drunk guys urinating and vomiting not only in the dark corners. Garbage bags left on the sidewalk, because taken out in the wrong day or not the allowed city bag, eventually broken by foxes and crows. The sidewalk was either covered by dog excrement or by badly parked cars, when not completely muddy. The feeling of distress was increased by the bad habit to put pop music in any subway station, making the city also loud.

8. Multicultural society. True. Much more accepted than in Vienna, but... the city has lost its soul, its identity, in the name of the respect. The true Belgians are rare in the city, the prefer to live in the countryside and commute every day. Living in Brussels or on the Moon... would be socially very similar. You can hear the Viennese dialect everywhere, but in Brussels just a few people could even speak Flemish!

9. Brussels is a city. Farmers bringing local products are to be... searched for in the internet. There are no seasonal products. On the weekend, large parts of the city are deserted. From Monday to Friday, the life is hectic.

10. As big as Vienna, but badly organized. Unfortunately.  

It's a pity, because Brussels could potentially be a good place for living. The location is perfect, in the hearth of Europe, well connected with the other capital cities, not too far from the sea side, full of universities and research facilities, multicultural and open society, multilingual. Really a pity. I hope that being aware of its weak points, the administration will work to achieve a top ranking.