September journeys

Years ago, before the pandemic but also before the job at the museum, it was not uncommon for me spending the whole September travelling from a summer school to a conference, from a short vacation to a field trip. In some years, I didn’t spend more than 5 nights on the same bed. This year, it was exactly like back then, and I enjoyed at lot.

1. Tyrol

The first journey began at the end of August, with a planned field trip to Tyrol. The initial idea was to build a small team of scientists, but it didn’t work. At the end, I was alone with a colleague of the GeoSphere Austria, who has kindly illustrated the outcrops and the local geology. My father came along to test the new van on a longer trip and to visit an old family friend in Bavaria on the way back. The weather was relatively fine during the trip, not more than some light rain, but had been quite bad the days before our journey. So bad that the road and the bridge to "the" outcrop had been washed away and we were blocked >2 hrs in a traffic jam on the highway around Wörgl for construction works of a mobile dam to hamper a flood. Nevertheless, the field trip was geologically successful, a number of samples were secured, and I got the (geological) picture of the area.. Before coming back, my father and I briefly drove to Bavaria, as planned, were we paid a visit to this still active 96 years old friend and checked that Germany is indeed less expensive than Austria.

St. Georg. Nördlingen.

II. Bavaria

A few days after coming back from Tyrol, I went again to Bavaria, but this time by train. A colleague of mine and I had been invited to give some lectures during a summer school for planetary scientists. I’ve been already some times to Närdlingen and I was looking forward to the school, where biologists, petrologists, and astronomers have the opportunity to meet and see what the others do. The train journey was long, but pleasant, I had to change in Meidling, München Ost (due to construction work, the international train was not going to München Hbf, which I had to reach by local underground trains), München Hbf, and Donauwörth. All trains on time, despite the bad name of the Deutsche Bahn. The school was as nice as expected and I met great people from all over the world, including and met again some international colleagues. On the way back home, I followed another path, changing in Donauwörth, Nürnberg, and Meidling. As I was in Nürnberg over lunch and I had never visited the city, I used the time for a short walk through the pedestrian, being enough to catch a free organ concert.

III. Vienna

Even though I commute every day between WN and Vienna, this time it felt like going abroad, because I attended a conference at the university, jointly supported by the German, Slovakian and Austrian mineralogical societies. It was a nice conference, where I met again some former and new colleagues, strengthening the ongoing scientific cooperation. As part of the conference, I gave a tour through some halls of the museum. Even though the number of participants was very limited, there were very interested participants. The organizer of the conference, as acknowledgment, gave me a personalized bottle of wine. Very appreciated. Despite the international environment (and the number of Italians, which made me constantly switching from English to German to Italian), I could go back to my old office at the university, currently empty, doing some work. A weird feeling, as I spent there nothing less than 6 years.

Nürnberg. A postcard corner.

IV. Italy

My parents wanted to go back to Italy before the outbreak of winterly temperatures and I wished to accompany them, so that my father can share the long drive with me. The best time was immediately after the conference, over a weekend. I stayed in my hometown less than 48 hours, but we did a lot of work in the garden and in the house in that time. On Sunday, after celebrating my mom’s birthday, I travelled back to WN, alone and by train. Every journey to Italy makes me feeling more and more "Austrian" or at least foreigner. A lot of unnecessary stress was caused by the introduction of a new digital ticket for regional trains… where one has to check in before travelling, like for a plane. It forces people to have a smartphone and internet connection, it doesn’t give the claimed flexibility, and leaves people insecure whether the ticket is valid or not. Ou course, as always, the ticket was not checked. As every time, I was sad to leave my parents and our cat, but I was happy to come back to Austria. 

My calendar is pretty busy for the next weeks, even in the weekends, where I’ll have to spend hours on trains between the country side, Vienna, and WN. The next "real" trip will be in a couple of weeks, going one day to Salzburg, by train of course! for a workshop on geological, artistic, and historical aspects of rocks. Very much looking forward to it.

Conference: Austria vs. Italy

 After a long time (more than two years), I packed for some days off, not on vacation, but for attending an Austrian conference in Leoben. It was a strange feeling thinking of what I might need in a hotel. When I visit my parents in Italy, I don’t need many tools, almost everything is doubled at my parents’ place. Now, I need a pyjama, toot brush, etc. In addition, I had to take with me the hated poster tube.

Trustful to my (green) tradition, I travelled by train, enjoying the beautiful but slow moving landscape at Semmering. The hotel, close to the former Abbey Göss (and the Gösser Brewery), was lovely. From my window, I could see the river Mur and a large gold quarry in between dark green woods. Again in a hotel after so much time. The first night, I couldn’t sleep, not because I was excited or because the room was noisy, but because I wasn’t used anymore to change bed. I’m getting old.

Historical town hall in Leoben

The conference has been organized by the Austrian Geological Society (and the Austrian Mineralogical Society, as well) at the University of Leoben, a relatively young (since 1840) technical university. The organization was outstanding, the location was easily reachable and the lecture halls comfortable. Lunches and coffee breaks (starting with a morning coffee and sweets) were included in the registration fee and were provided by the local cafeteria. Not bad at all. Even though I skipped the overcrowded social dinner, I enjoyed much the icebreaker party, attended by just a few people. The quality of talks was quite high, there was room for opposite interpretations, without strong fights (Austrians are not Italian). Except for an entertaining public lecture, everything was in English. The University of Leoben hosts several international students, but it was also a pleasure to realize that I’m not the only non-German-speaking senior scientist (not a temporary student), who learned enough German to feel somehow integrated in the local geological community (well, actually, just being able to discuss some geological points, but still being considered a foreigner). The only two "negative" points were the arbitrary subdivision in sessions (more than one talk or poster ended up in the "wrong" session considering the audience and the topic), and the fact that the conference began on a Sunday quite early in the morning. A plus was the guided tour offered through the relatively small city center of Leoben. Very instructive. The biggest surprise was finding an Asian gate next to the university… even though there are no strong connections between Leoben and China. It is actually a spa.

St. Barbara, protector of miners and geologists

I loved speaking "geology" again, jumping between languages and topics. Even though the conference was only focused on terrestrial features, I met a colleague of mine employed in Leoben and we talked a bit about meteorites, too. Just the week before this conference, I had attended a workshop in Vienna organized by an Austrian professor emigrated in the UK and financed by the European Research Council. It was also amazing for the quality of the talks and the scientific exchanges. The online meetings offer a great opportunity, saving money and carbon emissions, but will never replace a conference in person, also accounting for the risk of an infection. Looking forward to the next in person meeting.

… I didn't have to waiting too long. The week after, I was in Italy for the Italian equivalent of the conference in Leoben. I travelled by train, this time too, but from Padova, instead of Vienna. Italian high-speed trains are indeed faster than Austrians, touching 300 km/h. Train vs. car: 1:0, but also against airplanes, considering the time lost at airports.

The conference took place in Turin, the first capital city of Italy (when Rome was still under the power of the Pope). Every stone there is dedicated to the "Risorgimento", the movement that led to the reunification of Italy under the "French" crown of Savoy, mostly against the Austrian empire in the NE and the Bourbon dynasty in the S, and the Pope in the central Italy. The second language, after Italian, is French, still spoken by many, as much as German is (was) the second language in my hometown. As always, when I attend a conference in Italy, I swear I won’t come another time… and every time, I attend another one. The final evaluation wasn’t that negative, though, so I made a list of plus and minus about the city and the conference.

P.za Castello, Turin

Plus:

- Automatic subway (existing since years and very efficient)

- green areas in the city

- drinking fountains everywhere

- delicious cookies, chocolate (pralines, like in Brussels), and ice cream

- meeting again professors of mine and colleagues from the past

- amazing science in some cases, despite the lack of funding

Minus:

- Public transit (bus and tram) and motor traffic

- conference schedule (practically from 8:30 to 7:30 pm with almost no break, but a large "nothing" between 12:30 pm and 3:30 pm)

- rooms disproportionated for the selected session, with several seats unusable because broken

- low accessibility (room at the third floor with no elevator, toilet in the basement, also without elevator, poster area ca. 1 km from the oral sessions and again with steps at the entrance)

- conference center in an almost red light district (it wasn’t, but some female "workers" were standing next to the conference center entrance also during the day)

- illogical conference program book (at least for a brain used to the German efficiency and logic…)

- last but not least.... the non-sustainable conference sponsor, which had a stand in the center of the poster area, playing music all the time, forcing us to shout in front of the posters to be heard.

In summary, in Leoben, I appreciated the scientific contributions and the location, in Turin, I enjoyed the (also scientific) chats with colleagues and meeting again people from my past (not only professors, but also colleagues, some of which moved out of academia or the country, like myself). However, I'd prefer meeting Italian colleagues in the framework of a cooperation, rather than "investing" research money in an over expensive conference. On the other hand, I'll be happy to attend again Austrian conferences in the future. 

Virtual conference in Chicago - diario di un convegno

 (Sotto in italiano)

If there was no pandemic, I would have flown to Chicago to attend in person the 84th Meeting of the Meteoritical Society, as in the tradition. Well, perhaps not, because this year, we got a very reduced amount of travel funding. The last year, the annual meeting had been cancelled/postponed. This year, the organizers created something unique: a hybrid conference, giving the opportunity to attend it in person and remotely. Months ago, I didn’t think to register, even virtually, because I had nothing to present (after one year pandemic), but then something came out and I decided to register for the virtual attendance, also to support the great work of the organizers.

The pre-conference poster presentation went just fine. We had the great opportunity to increase the visibility of our posters with a 3 minutes live talk and 2 minutes live questions, but unfortunately only a few people attended the two sessions planned. The actual conference was hold according to the time zone of Chicago, which means between 3:30 pm and 11:30 pm in Europe. All the evening events were too late for the European time, but it will be possible to check them later during the year. Changing session, instead of physically changing room, required loading another webpage. The first part of talks were given live by speakers in the audience and the second part consisted of pre-recorded talks, whose speakers were connected live for the questions, which were asked both by people in the room, as usual, and by the remote audience, but by e-mail. These latter questions were read live by the chairmen. It sounds complicated, but after the initial skepticism it worked pretty well.

Honestly, we are all tired of online conferences! However, seeing real people in a room (wearing a mask and dealing with the restrictions dictated by the pandemic) contributes to increase our resilience and patience. The broadcasting was professionally done and for sure was not cheap. As remarked in the society meeting, the registration fees won’t cover all the costs for such a hybrid conference. However, I hope that this hybrid mode will survive the pandemic, to give the opportunity to attend overseas conference to scientists (not only students) with limited funding. I missed indeed the social events and the interactions in front of the posters, but better this way than no conference at all!

_._._._._._

In altri tempi, avrei raccontato qui del mio viaggio a Chicago per partecipare ad un convegno internazionale. La pandemia ha costretto gli organizzatori a cancellare l’evento l’anno scorso ed ha proporne una versione ibrida quest’anno, ossia in presenza per i locali (e chi può viaggiare) ed online per gli altri. All’inizio pensavo di non prendervi parte, non avendo alcun risultato significativo da presentare. Poi, invece, visto che contribuivo alla presentazione di qualche collega, ho creduto opportuno seguire almeno la versione online, sia per sostenere gli organizzatori e sia per essere aggiornata sulle novità nel settore. Eccomi quindi a raccontare di questo convegno con viaggio virtuale negli USA, senza ore di volo, camere condivise con colleghi e cambio di alimentazione, ma solo con orari da altro fuso, comodamente seduta a casetta in Austria e da sola (o meglio, collegata via chat con i colleghi per commentare in diretta).

Sessione poster pre-convegno

Non potendo avere una sessione poster ibrida e prevedendo che per alcuni (specialmente gli europei) una sessione poster in orario reale sarebbe stata troppo tardi, gli organizzatori hanno ideato una sessione poster virtuale qualche giorno prima del convegno, in cui gli interessati potevano presentare il proprio lavoro e rispondere alle eventuali domande in slot di 5 minuti. Purtroppo si trattava di due sessioni parallele, per cui dovendo presentare in una non ho potuto seguire l’altra. L’idea in sé è bella ed ha dato la possibilità di aumentare la visibilità dei poster altrimenti dimenticati tra i contenuti online, ma purtroppo è stata poco sentita. Erano collegati principalmente solo quelli che dovevano presentare e data la varietà di argomenti non ci sono state grandi discussioni scientifiche, nella maggior parte dei casi non c’erano nemmeno domande oltre a quelle dei convener.

Train at Chicago airport. Seen in 2017.

Primo giorno

Con alcuni minuti di ritardo, la trasmissione è iniziata e, nonostante i timori iniziali, pure il cambio di sessione ha funzionato. Unico neo della prima sessione è stato forse il tempo dedicato alle domande, in cui hanno mescolato domande giunte via e-mail dal pubblico "a casa" e quelle in presenza, rivolte sia ai relatori precedenti sia a quelli pre-registrati e collegati via zoom. Un po’ di confusione e qualche silenzio imbarazzante, ma era la prima volta per tutti, credo. Meglio così che non avere proprio la possibilità di fare domande, anche se ero abituata alle dirette zoom, in cui tutti si era online.

La sessione pomeridiana, ossia dopocena, è stata duretta, sia per l’orario, sia perché la stragrande maggioranza delle presentazioni era pre-registrata e sia per l’ampiezza e la diversità dei temi affrontati. 2h30 senza pause e poi quasi 30 minuti di domande, quando la sottoscritta alle 22 solitamente è già nel mondo dei sogni da tempo. Chattando e commentando in contemporanea con un paio di colleghi, come forse avrei fatto anche in presenza. Intanto infuriava una tempesta estiva, ma per fortuna la connessione internet ha retto. Finalmente alle 23:30 ho potuto spegnere il computer. Niente Barringer Lecture stavolta, troppo tardi.

Secondo giorno

Nella mattinata col fuso europeo ho concluso poco, prevalentemente corrispondenza in tedesco. Alle 15:30 (in Europa) è iniziata la sessione sugli impatti, che mi ha dato la possibilità di rivedere il mio ex-capo viennese, ma dall’altra parte della Terra. Sono abituata a vederlo in TV in Austria, il convegno virtuale non è molto differente. Intanto ho preso coraggio ed ho inviato un paio di domande via e-mail, poi lette in diretta dai coordinatori della sessione. Dopocena (nel pomeriggio a Chicago) mi sono trasferita virtualmente su Marte. Sessione più popolata e movimentata di quella sugli impatti, ma alle 22 sono crollata dal sonno.

Terzo giorno

Solo mezza giornata di convegno virtuale per la consegna dei vari premi, permettendomi di mandare avanti il lavoro nel resto della giornata. Doppia cerimonia di premiazione per recuperare quella dell’anno scorso. Non potevo perdermela, visto che il mio ex-capo ha ricevuto un premio! Certo, un po’ triste in una sala semivuota e con metà dei premiati collegati online o con presentazioni pre-registrate.

Quarto giorno

Presentazione del nostro lavoro tramite un collega, ma poche domande nella discussione. Nella pausa pranzo (in realtà cena in Europa) c’è stata la riunione della Meteoritical Society. Trovo l’evoluzione interessante. Nota a margine, il presidente uscente è donna ed americana, il nuovo presidente è donna e francese. La società mineralogica austriaca (ÖMG) ha pure una presidentessa e ci sono parecchi cambiamenti in programma. Coincidenza? :)

Quinto giorno

Ultimo giorno del convegno. Al mattino (in Europa) ho trascorso oltre tre ore ad un incontro online al museo in tedesco, per poi passare al convegno dalle 15:30. Giornata decisamente piena. La stanchezza si percepisce, non solo da parte mia. L’ultimo giorno del convegno è sempre "stanco" ed avere una presentazione orale il venerdì pomeriggio, quando molti partecipanti se ne sono già andati, è considerato una sfortuna. Domani sarebbe previsto un workshop interessante, ma passo. Le informazioni fornite soddisferebbero solo la mia curiosità, ma non contribuirebbero alla mia ricerca o al mio lavoro. In ogni caso sono soddisfatta, ho già raccolto parecchi spunti dal convegno e mi sono ricaricata di entusiasmo per vari temi di ricerca. Non è stato nemmeno paragonabile ad un convegno di persona, ma come si dice dalle mie parti "piuttosto che niente, meglio piuttosto".

Era meglio nel 2019?

Un’amica mi ha scritto che le manca la vita del 2019, anche se di salute stava peggio. La situazione alla lunga sta logorando anche le persone più pazienti. Ciononostante continuo a sostenere che l'Uomo si capace di adattarsi, senza guardarsi indietro con rimpianto. La vita di oggi ha i suoi aspetti positivi, nonostante la pandemia. Sinceramente, non rimpiango la mia vita del 2019. Sicuramente, però, ci sono degli aspetti di "prima" che mi mancano: 

 

• Viaggi: verso i miei, in vacanza con le amiche, sul terreno, per convegni, per collaborazioni scientifiche; in treno, in aereo, in auto ed in camper. 
• Convegni in presenza: dall’albergo alle cene al ristorante, dalla sezione poster col bicchiere in mano alle ore di sessioni orali in stanze fredde da aria condizionata; erano occasioni per conoscere altri scienziati, far nascere progetti assieme, confrontarsi su interpretazioni diverse, scambiarsi articoli, etc. 
• Concerti, opere e rappresentazioni teatrali: vedere un’opera sullo schermo del portatile in streaming non ha lo stesso effetto che respirare la polvere di un teatro, commentando in diretta con il vicino, percependo con tutto il corpo le vibrazioni trasmesse all'aria dagli strumenti, essere avvolti dal suono, ma anche non vedere in primo piano la faccia del cantante, perché la lontananza (e la miopia) favoriscono l’identificazione col personaggio, mentre le smorfie ed il sudore no.

In attesa dell'imbarco.

 La mancanza di tali occasioni ha comunque dei risvolti positivi:  

• No viaggi. Risparmio CO2, vedo i miei più spesso tramite Skype, non devo fare la valigia, dormendo in letti diversi dal mio, rimanendo seduta ore ed ore in treno o, peggio, in uno stretto sedile d’aereo, non sono costretta a pensare ove trovare un bagno e poi usarne uno pubblico, e se sono al volante non devo sorbirmi lo stress del traffico o del brutto tempo. 
• No convegni. Niente alito pesante di qualche collega che alza il gomito o scene imbarazzanti che avrei preferito non vedere, non mi devo sforzare di comprendere l’inglese masticato con pronunce diverse da quelle standard, non mi devo vergognare per la mia stessa pronuncia, ho più tempo per parlare con colleghi internazionali selezionati su argomenti specifici in appuntamenti digitali programmati, non vivo lo stress da prenotazioni di hotel e voli facendo quadrare i conti (ossia gli scarsi fondi a disposizione) e da preparazione poster e ppt.  
• No teatri. Sono allergica alla polvere, ogni visita in teatro mi causa naso intasato per giorni,  non devo stare ore in piedi senza vedere il palco per poter risparmiare sul biglietto, non ci si accapiglia per un posto con un minimo di visibilità, se devo andare in bagno metto in pausa il video, finalmente vedo cosa succede in scena e con i sottotitoli riesco a seguire anche i testi più complessi, infine l’audio in cuffia rende tutte le sfumature che magari in sala si perdono.

... tutto sommato...

Le ultime ore del 2020, poi finalmente ci lasceremo questo anno alle spalle. Questo è quello che mi sento dire da ogni dove. È veramente tutto da dimenticare? Il peggior anno della nostra vita? Se è vero che s’impara più dalle sconfitte che dalle vittorie, i passati 365 giorni ci avranno comunque lasciato qualcosa. Sicuramente è stato un anno difficile, per molti davvero drammatico, ma ci sono stati momenti positivi, come in ogni periodo della nostra vita. Alla fine, la suddivisione del tempo in anni che iniziano il primo gennaio è un’invenzione umana, l’anno solare ha una durata leggermente diversa (per questo esistono gli anni bisestili, come il 2020) ed essendo basato su un movimento pseudo-circolare non ha né inizio né fine. Ecco, dunque, una lista dei momenti piacevoli che voglio ricordare del 2020, affinché quest’anno non sia “da dimenticare” completamente: 

da qui

 

• Convegno a Padova a febbraio. Sono tornata nella città in cui ho studiato da turista, con una visita guidata alla Specola in una giornata di sole, e da cittadina, rivivendo i luoghi della gioventù ed il pendolarismo tra il mio paese e la città come fatto per 19 anni. Sono stata una settimana in più dalla mia famiglia senza dover prendere ferie. Infine ho rivisto un caro amico romano in una giornata di fuga a Bologna, una città che accoglie sempre e chiunque con un sorriso… ed un fumante piatto di pasta fatta a mano. 
• Pubblicazione degli articoli dal progetto, conclusosi nel 2019, che mi ha permesso di tornare a Vienna. Tali pubblicazioni hanno anche rappresentato l’inizio di collaborazioni produttive con colleghi di qui ed in Scozia. Sempre in campo scientifico, sono stata coinvolta nella scrittura di lavori di un paio di due dottorandi, in Italia ed in Austria, nella stesura di un progetto per un dottorato in Italia che è stato finanziato e nella preparazione di un articolo dal lavoro di una mia laureanda.  
• Collaborazione con l’Università di Pavia. Era già iniziata l’anno prima, ma quest’anno si è consolidata, portando a scambi non solo di mere nozioni  scientifiche, ma anche di rapporti umani. Si è rafforzata anche la collaborazione con l'Università di Camerino ed è iniziato un affascinante progetto storico con L'Università di Firenze. Nemmeno ai tempi di Padova avevo così tanti rapporti con altre università italiane! 
• Festa di compleanno virtuale ed in presenza. Ho raggiunto la tappa importante dei 40 anni. Se la data reale del compleanno è caduta durante il primo lockdown e quindi la festa è stata solo virtuale, ma con delle belle sorprese consegnate a casa, in estate ho potuto recuperare di persona con i colleghi d’ufficio, grazie anche ad un compaesano ristoratore. 
• Settimana in Trentino e settimana in Burgenland con i miei. Sempre d’estate, ho potuto godere della tradizionale vacanza in montagna in famiglia, tra passeggiate tra i boschi dell’Altipiano e pratica di guida in autostrada. A settembre, poi, siamo andati in camper in Burgenland, ove abbiamo girato in bici fino a stancarci tra colline e vigneti, gustando la cucina locale e scoprendo posti nuovi. 
• Convegno in Giappone. Se non ci fosse stata la pandemia, quest’anno non ci sarei andata. I fondi non sono sufficienti a coprire i costi di viaggio e soggiorno, non ne sarebbe valsa la pena per un giorno solo di convegno. Invece, data l’impossibilità di prendere un aereo, il convegno si è svolto online ed ho potuto seguirlo, comodamente da casa, in pigiama (causa differenza di fuso orario, si è svolto tra le 1:20 di notte e le 7 del mattino in Europa). 
• Nuove conoscenze ed incarichi musicali. Facebook può essere utile, se non abusato. Mi ha permesso di conoscere un organista italiano, poi emigrato in Germania, che oltre ad un arricchimento culturale mi ha portato un altro contatto ed un posto ove suonare la domenica, incontrando la Vienna austriaca imperiale pre-multiculturalismo. 
• L’acquisto di un organo digitale e la ripresa delle lezioni di perfezionamento. Non solo posso dilettarmi ogni giorno, a casa, esercitandomi o anche semplicemente “strimpellando” le musiche eterne di Bach, ma questo regalo mi ha pure permesso di rivedere il mio insegnante senza dover fare ore ed ore di treno. 
• Ritorno alla geologia strutturale. Non ho abbandonato il tema di ricerca che mi ha portata all’estero, ma quest'anno ho avuto l’opportunità di tornare ad occuparmi di quegli argomenti che mi hanno entusiasmata negli anni di dottorato. Grazie ad un collega ed amico, sono pure andata sul terreno, cosa che non facevo da anni, apprezzando quell’attività che da studente detestavo.
   

Non è stato tutto negativo. Anzi, la pandemia e la crisi ci hanno costretto a spolverare la nostra creatività per trovare delle soluzione alternative. Se da un lato gli assembramenti e le manifestazioni contro le direttive del governo per arginare il contagio mi hanno fatto perdere fiducia nell’essere umano come soggetto pensante, dall’altro l’inventiva nel sostenersi ed affrontare le difficoltà me l’hanno fatta recuperare. Mi auguro che alla fine del 2021 possa fare di nuovo un bilancio tutto sommato positivo. Per il momento, non cancelliamo l'intero 2020, solo quello che preferiamo dimenticare.

USA vs. Japan

Facebook has reminded me that in 2009, just before Christmas, I went to the USA for the first time to attend an international conference. For a few years after 2013, the beginning of December meant a flight to Japan, also for attending a conference. This year, I attended this traditional conference in Japan without taking a long haul flight, but waking up at 1:20 am and connecting to Zoom still in pajama. Japan and the USA represent the furthermost destinations of my scientific journeys, so far. Two places that are so different from Europe! I've been only trice to the USA, visiting San Francisco (California), Houston (Texas), Santa Fe (New Mexico), Flagstaff and nearby areas (Arizona), and Chicago (well... the airport). I've been six times in Japan, mostly around Tachikawa, Sagamihara, and Tokyo, but also visiting Sapporo and Otaru (Hokkaido). For compensating the lack of travels this year, here is a list of 5+ and the 5- for both countries, according to my opinion and experience. Don't take them too seriously!

 

USA

+ Natural landscapes. No buildings or people for km. From forests to deserts, from canyons to mountains, from rivers to two oceans.
+ Kindness, especially in the South. I don’t mean the hypocritical servility of waiters in restaurants, but the kindness of normal people, when you ask for information. Maybe, it is a rare attitude in large cities like New York, but I’ve never got rude answers, when I asked people where I was.
+ A common language, worldwide known and used. They do their best to understand and help you, even if you are not fluent in English.
+ Proud of their mixed (European) origins. Any US citizen would proudly state his/her 1/4 Italian, 1/4 Irish etc. blood.

+ Gratis drink refill in many restaurants and 24h shops and restaurants. You can live with your own rhythm.


- Cars. Except for large "European-like" cities, you need a car, or you are stuck somewhere along a 6-lane railroad. Even when a public transportation system is present, it is often seen as mean reserved for poor people.
- Most of the people just speak English. Many of them try hard to learn another language, but they easily give up. In Europe, it is normal being able to speak 2 or more foreign languages (well… not everywhere).
- Arrogance, lack of historical culture, racism. This does not apply to all the Americans, of course, many of them fight against these issues in the society. I am always disappointed by the lack of... 3-4000 yrs philosophy, science, music, architecture, literature, etc., compensated by the arrogance of being the best or the first. You can feel that in any conversation. Btw, Europe is going down in education in the last years...
- Social differences and expensive health system. In Europe, most of the inhabitants belong to the middle class, which is almost completely missing in the USA. Poor peoples, mostly Hispanics or Afro-Americans are socially marginalized and seen with suspicion by the rich (mostly white) portion of the society.
- Tax not included in the shown price in shops. In each state, you need a pocket calculator and a table with the different tax rules.

Japan
+ Culture and traditions. Thousands of years of history, literature, painting, architecture, philosophy, etc.
+ Creativity and cleverness in living with a hostile territory (volcanoes, earthquakes, landslides, floods, tsunamis...), leading for technology and safety.
+ Respect towards other people and the creation. This is related to their culture and religion(s).
+ Rail network and generally public transportation. It is more common seeing overcrowded subway trains (with officers with white gloves gently pushing people to let the door be closed) than traffic jams. Tokyo alone has more inhabitants than the whole Austria. Tokyo-Osaka (ca. 500 km) by train takes as long as Vienna-Graz (200 km).
+ Food (for variety and price). What reached Europe is perhaps 10% of what you can get on place, not to mention the difference in taste.


- English knowledge. Japanese is not easy to be learned, especially in writing, but English is not very common, even in large cities. A lady at the Haneda airport, aiming to show the preparation for the Olympics, indicated a new sign of toilets, written in Japanese, Chinese, and Korean (I guess)... very helpful! I don't like using English as a worldwide unique language, but... it makes life much easier to a lot of people.
- The condition of women in the culture. Wait! I don't mean that women are badly treated, but they do have less career opportunities than men. It is part of their mentality. Most of the women quit studying or working as soon as they marry, and unmarried >30 yrs old women are considered weird.
- Strong honor mentality. This is also in their culture. Mistakes are not easily forgiven. A personal failure leads to suicide or rejection from the family.
- The word "no" doesn't exist (or is very rarely used). It became a recurring joke among European colleagues. We learned that "maybe" corresponds to our very rude "no" or "never".
- Left-hand drive. Like in the UK and in a few other places on the world. I didn't drive in Japan, but I did ride a bike. It is confusing. Luckily, traffic lights and bike lines are everywhere, otherwise it would have been quite dangerous. How do they manage to survive in the USA or even worse in (Southern) Europe? In fact, it was hard to find 5- for Japan, excluding the difference in mentality with Europe. I like this country very much!

Japan 6: first time in Hokkaido

The annual meeting of the Meteoritical Society always offers the opportunity to visit a new place. This time, it was Sapporo. For the 6th time, I went to Japan, supported by a bunch of reasons:

1. I like Japan, I like the food, the clean streets, the efficient transportation, etc. Besides, I've never been in Hokkaido before.
2. It was the last conference during the project that has allowed me to come back to Vienna.
3. A friend of mine, met in 2008 in the Netherlands at an organ summer school, recently moved to Otaru, close to Sapporo, and I'd like to meet her again.

Campus of the Hokkaido University

I flew with a German colleague of mine from the museum and, this time, with ANA instead of Lufthansa or Austrian. We left a hot Vienna on a Saturday and we landed in Tokyo on Sunday morning. We had to run through Haneda airport because we had just 45 minutes to disembark, pass the immigration, pick up the luggage, pass the custom, check the luggage for domestic flights, change terminal, pass through the security again, and finally board another plane. With the support of the ground staff of ANA, we made it. Despite the lack of sleep, we managed to take a bus to the city and to walk to the hotel. Our room wasn't available until 3 p.m., so we went for food and a walk in the beautiful Odori Park, enjoying the sun and the mild temperature. 

The conference was attended by a large number of scientists, but some groups were missing, including many colleagues, who are likely going to other competing and more specific meetings that will take place in the next months. This is why I didn't receive a lot of inputs on the current project, but I learned a lot on other topics, I developed new ideas, and I met new colleagues for  potential collaborations. As usual, there were other Italians, most of them with a foreign affiliation. The conference was organized in July to have the opportunity to follow live the second touch down of the Haybusa II probe on asteroid Ryugu. The social events during the conference were extraordinary good: icebreaker party with free ice cream, gala dinner with Japanese dance and drum music and delicious food for all (but the event ended at 9 p.m., quite soon for the Western habits), farewell party (although in this case the food wasn’t enough for all), several tours on Wednesday (I attended the one in the city, led by a very enthusiastic Japanese guide, who taught us something about Sapporo and Hokkaido playing quizzes), and long poster sessions with drinks and snacks. It was even offered to learn Japanese writing and to take part to a tea ceremony. Although it seemed organized in the last minute, overall the result was fantastic and the location, within the campus of the Hokkaido University, particularly beautiful.

 

The famous canal strolling in Otaru

On Saturday, all by my own, I went to the coast city of Otaru to meet the dear friend of mine I mentioned above, who had explained to me the Japanese mentality and culture much longer before I ever thought to come to visit the country. I also met her daughters, both talented musicians, especially the eldest, 6 yrs old, capable to offer a passionate interpretation of Bach, not just pressing the right keys at a good speed. Well, the mom is a musician, too, although she’s not playing the organ anymore. Otaru, a nice fisher village, famous for… glass, exactly like Murano (Venice). But also for bier, fish, and other products. The train journey from Sapporo offers a nice view of the coast, with the railway at a few meters from the water.

This part of Japan is peculiar, because a "nordic" landscape, with cows, forests, and facilities for winter sports, is mixed with the typical asiatic features, including skyscrapers, shrines, Ramen restaurants, etc. There are a lot of tourists, mostly from China or from Japan itself. The whole country is an interesting contradiction. The amount of packaging and plastic produced every day is "compensated" by the use of green ink or recycled paper. The technological advancement of the computer science is balanced by the traditional mentality about marriage and levels of respect in the speech. The enormous debts of the nation contrasts with the high cost of living and the luxury style. Slim people that eat anytime and not so light dishes. Every time in Japan is a "wow". So different and so lovely. See you soon again, Japan!

Addio Firenze! (Cit. Gianni Schicchi)

Per puro caso ho ascoltato il Gianni Schicchi alla Volksoper (quindi tradotto in tedesco) per ben due volte e poco dopo sono andata a Firenze per partecipare al Congresso Italiano di Scienze Planetarie. Per questo uso le parole di Gianni come titolo al post. Chissà quando ricapiterà di tornare a Firenze, città che avevo visto da piccola e che stavolta non ho avuto tempo e modo di gustare. Firenze è bellissima, nessun dubbio, ma l'aumento del numero di turisti e di studenti universitari ed il ritardo dell'adeguamento dei trasporti e delle strutture ha reso la città disorganizzata e confusionaria come non mi sarei aspettata da un centro-nord Italia.

Il viaggio di andata da Vienna a Venezia ha avuto un piccolo imprevisto, oltre due ore di ritardo a Tarvisio causa guasto al locomotore. Invece, a sorpresa, il viaggio fino a Firenze è filato liscio ed il treno è letteralmente sfrecciato nelle gallerie  appenniniche ad oltre 270 km orari. Raggiungere la pensione ove alloggiavo è stato più complicato, tanto che ho preferito andare a piedi, attivando il navigatore sullo smartphone. La pensione non era male, curata e comoda, ma tra un'incomprensione e le nuove leggi italiane che mettono a rischio il rimborso da parte di Vienna, tra lo scarso isolamento acustico dalla strada, non posso dire di essermi proprio goduta il soggiorno. Avrei dovuto restare fino al venerdì ora pranzo, ossia fino al termine del convegno, ma hanno annunciato uno sciopero ferroviario nazionale (novità) ed ho preferito rientrare la sera stessa della mia presentazione, per cui dopo il mio orale sono corsa in stazione. Fatica sprecata, 40 minuti di ritardo del frecciargento, quindi più di un'ora al freddo in stazione dopo i varchi, perché non c'è nemmeno una sala d'aspetto. La linea del tram T2 che dovrebbe collegare il nuovo polo universitario con il centro è in fase di test da un anno e le linee autobus circolano a piacimento. Se avessero tenuto il convegno in un paesino sperduto  nella campagna bergamasca sarebbe stato lo stesso, Firenze con le sue bellezze è rimasta un miraggio a km di distanza a piedi o a decine e decine di minuti di attesa di autobus imbottigliati nel traffico.

Minima distanza raggiunta dal Duomo. Ovviamente, cantiere del tram.

Il convegno già dall'annuncio mi era sembrato molto… "italiano", nonostante gli sforzi degli organizzatori per prepararlo al meglio. Scadenza per la presentazione dei contributi prorogata, perché gli Italiani aspettano sempre l'ultimo minuto per inviare qualcosa, e poi il server se ne è mangiati alcuni, costringendo l’organizzatore a chiederne copia nel fine settimana sotto Natale, la ricevuta con tanto di marca da bollo secondo le leggi italiane che in campo burocratico sfiorano il ridicolo, i perenni ritardi nell’iniziare le presentazioni, specialmente al mattino e dopo pranzo, con la gente che arriva quasi a fine sessione e si sofferma a chiacchierare sulla porta, una certa aria di sufficienza verso le presentazioni degli studenti, il monopolio tematico di esponenti di determinate comunità, etc. Tra tutti i partecipanti, poco più di un centinaio, mai tutti presenti contemporaneamente, credo di essere una delle pochissime venuta dall’estero. Avevo sperato, o forse mi ero illusa, di tessere relazioni in grado magari di far fruttare quella famosa ed inutile abilitazione. Invece si finisce per parlare prevalentemente con chi si conosce già. Ciononostante, il bilancio finale non è stato affatto negativo e pur se all'ultimo giorno qualche conoscenza importante s'è fatta, sperando sia l'inizio di fruttuose collaborazioni scientifiche.

Per il pranzo ci si appoggiava alla locale mensa. Non si mangiava male, ma il fatto che le lezioni qui siano già riprese ha reso l’esperienza stressante, a causa della rumorosità degli studenti. Per la cena sociale ci hanno portato a Prato, anche per farci visitare il museo del posto. Nonostante sia una collezione modesta rispetto quella viennese, si tratta di una raccolta di minerali e meteoriti di tutto rispetto, con pezzi molto rari e costosi. La mostra è ben organizzata, interessante e comprensibile anche ad un bambino, con installazioni intuitive pure sulla meccanica celeste. Mi sembra, però, che tutti i testi siano solamente in Italiano, il negozio del museo è minuscolo ed associato alla biglietteria. Non avrei saputo dell'esistenza del museo se non mi ci avessero portato, eppure è il maggiore d'Italia del suo genere. Peccato! Per il nostro paese, come sempre. La cena è stata semplice ma gustosa, senza la famosa fiorentina coll'osso che avei evitato, ma con il celebre pane senza sale e la millefoglie come dolce.

In conclusione, mi dispiace molto per Firenze che avevo forse idealizzato come messa meglio di Roma in tema di ricezione del turista, mi dispiace per la comunità italiana che cade sempre nell'autoreferenziale. Ciononostante, trovo il modo di fare ricerca in Italia eticamente più corretto e con conoscenze più approfondite che all'estero, da alcuni scienziati italiani c'è da imparare. Allo stesso tempo, però, è evidentemente abbiano pochi mezzi. Purtroppo, non sono (ancora) in una posizione da risultare appetibile anche dal loro lato. In ogni caso, l'ennesima visita in Italia che ha rafforzato la mia convinzione a restare all'estero.

Berlino: non c'è due senza tre

Terza volta a Berlino durante il 2018, ma ogni volta è un'esperienza nuova. Il motivo del mio recente soggiorno era prendere parte all'European Planetary Science Congress (EPSC) 2018, che si è tenuto presso la TU di Berlino.

La TU di Berlino, tra storia e modernità

Impressioni dal convegno

Un miscuglio di sensazioni. Un po' perché c'erano parecchi italiani, tra cui ex-colleghi e vecchie conoscenze, oltre ad una grossa rappresentanza da Padova, la città in cui ho studiato. Un po' perché all'entusiasmo per l'interazione produttiva con astronomi, fisici ed ingegneri su temi comuni si è contrapposta la delusione della chiusura della comunità degli impattologi. Un po' perché ogni convegno rappresenta una fucina di idee che poi si spegne una volta tornati alla realtà quotidiana. Dopo la Humboldt e la FU, mi mancava la TU. Ora posso dire di aver visitato quasi tutte le università di Berlino. L'organizzazione è stata germanicamente efficiente, anche se l'ultimo giorno si sono dimenticati di pulire gli spazi a noi riservati. Il convegno non era affatto economico, ma non abbiamo ricevuto alcun gadget, come invece accade ad altre conferenze. Nemmeno la cena sociale, a buffet, era inclusa nella costosa iscrizione.

Impressioni dal soggiorno

Causa concomitante maratona e fiera, gli hotel economici ove solitamente pernotto avevano prezzi proibitivi, così ho prenotato una stanza tramite airbnb. La stanza prenotata era presso una signora in pensione nel cuore di Mitte, in un tipico Plattenbau di epoca socialista, ma completamente rinnovato, a due passi da Gendarmenmarkt. A parte la deprecabile abitudine della signora di fumare, la permanenza è stata confortevole. Non solo ho trovato una casa arredata in modo molto simile alla mia fino ai minimi dettagli (sono proprio tedesca dentro, come la mia non comune famiglia), ma ho anche goduto di lunghe chiacchierate con la signora, avendo la possibilità di sentire come la pensa un tedesco medio della situazione attuale.

L'edificio in cui soggiornavo. Il primo di tre uguali.

Nonostante la signora sia aperta e curiosa, tanto da ospitare gente da tutto il mondo e da avere amici con origini disparate, inizia a non sopportare i nuovi migranti. Tale cambio di mentalità risulta, a mio parere, dall'efficace propaganda di certi partiti (hanno addirittura distribuito gratuitamente libercoli complottisti), ma anche dall'atteggiamento arrogante ed offensivo di qualche testa calda (alla signora è stato dato della nazista in un supermercato da un mediorientale). Lei auspica un ritorno ai tempi dei Gastarbeiter, non la chiusura delle frontiere, ossia immigrazione controllata e solo della forza lavoro necessaria. Eppure in passato anche i Gastarbeiter furono mal digeriti.

Berlino offre sempre occasione di riflessione storica. Sono passata anche dal Tränenpalast, ripensando a quando la città era divisa. A differenza di Vienna, la storia recente e l'attualità sono onnipresenti. Dunque, arrivederci Berlino, alla prossima occasione di vederci!

Bonn, or the German Brussels

(sotto un riassunto in italiano)

First time in Bonn, the former capital city of Germany. I knew Bonn as the birthplace of Ludwig van Beethoven, who eventually died in Vienna, and as the place where some former colleagues did their PhD. Now, thanks to a conference, I have the opportunity to visit the city

First day: the journey

It could have been worse, but this doesn’t mean it was good. I woke up too early, so I anticipated all my plans and before 7 am I was already at the airport. The direct flight to Bonn was to expensive, now I have to change in Munich. The first flight was fine, just 15 minutes delay. The second flight was a nightmare: the gate changed twice and I had to go to another terminal by train, they had to change the aircraft, modifying the seat numbers and having people in overbooking, when we were ready to leave they realized that a cargo door wasn’t working properly and they had to load down half of the luggage, finally we took off with 1 hr delay, and upon the arrival at least 50 passengers didn’t receive their luggage, included myself. In the meantime, I had developed a headache. The airport Köln-Bonn is relatively small but disorganized. Even asking to some security guys, it has been difficult to find the bus stop. Thanks God, I didn’t have to wait for the bus and the bus driver was very kind and helpful. The main railway station in Bonn is as chaotic and bad populated as the Gare du Midi in Brussels. On the top, it is a construction site and the indication signs are poor. Eventually I got the train to Tannenbusch, district compared to Molenbeek in the press, where was the cheapest-but-still-expensive hotel I had to book because the Airbnb I booked had to cancel the stay. Tannenbusch indeed recalls some poor districts of Brussels, with men hanging around, graffiti over shop doors, and cars parked on the sidewalk. However, you can recognize that it is Germany, because clean and effective, expecially during week days. The hotel is fine, but I felt so broken that rather than enjoining the icebreaker party at the conference, I went immediately to bed without lunch and dinner.

Second day: shopping and conference

As it seemed that the suitcase would have not been delivered for a long time and considering that I had nothing but my laptop and an umbrella in my hand-luggage, I decided to buy the minimum stuff for surviving a couple of days, which means toiletry and a change. Such common things are much more cheaper here than in Vienna, even though I bought the same products in the same shop chains! I eventually got my suitcase delivered in the hotel at 9 pm, when I had given up the hope to see it for the day.

The impression of Bonn is of a cute city, but a whole construction site, including the already mentioned main railway station, the Münster, and even the main building of the university, where the conference takes place. This building is a beautiful baroque castle from the outside, and a terrible 70’ assemblage of classrooms and offices in the interior. Funny fact, in the main hall, there is a pipe organ  and in a large lecture theater there is a piano. I was afraid to spend a lot of time my own, because I feared not to know many people at the conference, which is mostly thought for the German geological community. In fact, I realized I do know a lot of people, considering the length of my academic experience (Ms degree obtained almost 15 yrs ago!) and the several changes of topic. For being the first day of the conference, I talked a lot, continuously switching between German and English, depending on the person I had in front.

Third day: just conference

This was my day, starting at 8:30 with my talk and closing at 6 pm with my poster. I met other former colleagues, friends, and acquaintances. For lunch, I went to a bakery and I enjoyed walking in the city. I like that it is mostly reserved to pedestrians. Actually, this is typical of many Austrian and German cities. Back to the conference, my early performance wasn’t at best, but I got positive feedback as interested questions, much better than having the audience bored or clearly disagreeing with the proposed idea. The poster wasn’t better, it wasn’t even my idea, but just reworking the analyses done by a former PhD student, who left after one year. It is not my field, strictly speaking. For dinner, I decided for the Italian next to the hotel, which is actually Italian but like thousands of Italians in Germany. People that emigrated at least 30-40 yrs ago.

Belgium? No, Germany.

Forth day: the conference dinner

The conference program for today wasn’t particularly interesting for me, so I spent the first part of the morning visiting Bonn. The first stop was at the old cemetery, where the Schumanns are buried. Then I walked through the city to the Rhine. I missed the water in Brussels, the small channel cannot be compared to a large river, such as the Danube or the Rhine. For lunch, a German colleague joined for visiting the local mineralogical museum, curated by the university. The location is gorgeous, in the Poppelsdorfer Castle, the exhibit is limited by well organized. In the afternoon, I followed some talks about outreach, which were much more self focused than I expected, and discussed about the limitations of a project with another colleague.

The event of the day was the conference dinner, organized in the new cafeteria of the university. Of the 760 participants, just ca. 400 attended the dinner. A considerable amount, in comparison with other conference dinners I attended. The food was on the average but the opportunity to chat and to meet other people from different fields was great. I felt sorry for the musicians, who played Irish folk music but where covered by the loud attempts to talk of the participants. As soon as I was done with the food, I left.

Fifth day: the ceremony

Last day of the conference, at least for the talks. The first part was dominated by the keynote talk of an old acquaintance, who proposed a kind of revolutionary interpretation but without the support of sufficient data (I know the feeling), followed by an interesting plenary lecture about seismotectonics (yeah! trying to understand earthquakes!) and by the award ceremony. What began in English, ended soon in German, as the conference was "supported" by the local geological, mineralogical, paleontological, etc. societies. The worst happened when an old professor said that he has been happy to hear a couple of talks in German and that we should use German again as language of science. What??? I’m not a fan of English, but as we dropped Latin, we have to use a common language, if we want to share the results of our research and to bring an advance in science, through global cooperation. It makes no sense going back to the national languages! If that professor does not understand that, why did he become the recipient of a prize? Another sad consideration about the conference, I’ve never seen so a few women on the stage. The spokesman of the organizing committee admitted that most of the work has been done by his French female colleague… but the truth is that he will be the only one remembered.

In the afternoon, after the last "scientific" lunch, I went for shopping at the Haribo, the famous company producing the chummy little bears, which I didn’t know originated in Bonn, and I went back to the hotel to work.

the Rhine

 Sixth day: the field trip

Finally, I have the opportunity to visit the volcanic field of the Eifel! This is what I fought when I registered for this field trip. In the years spent in Belgium, just on the other side of the border, I always dreamed of such an excursion. In fact, the field trip was mostly archeological, paleontological, and paleobotanical, but nevertheless interesting. I saw very old fossils (Devonian), very recent maars (ca. 30 ka), and the genius of the Romans. We, Italians, sometimes forget that our grand-grand-grandparents brought the civilization in Europe… As usual, I was the only foreigner in a German group, both as Italian and as coming from Austria, but as I do speak German (or at least I understand most of it) the explanations were given only in German. There was a pretty heterogeneous group of participants, not all of us were scientist and even among the geologists many different disciplines were represented. As true German, we arrived in Bonn exactly at 6 pm, but due to the French and Roman historical influences my train was broken and after a detour I got back to the hotel with an unwanted delay.

Seventh day: the museums

I should have left today, but the flight was too expensive. Of course, a night longer in hotel costs as well, but at the beginning I planned to stay elsewhere, saving research money. What to do? I have already seen almost everything I wanted to see and in the weekend, the trains are less thick. I spent a lot of time just waiting. The only highlight of the day was Beethoven’s house, even though he was only born here and his parents moved out when he was three.

Eighth day: the history

Before leaving, after the last delicious breakfast in a local bakery, I went to the church close to the hotel (catholic, even though I guess that the district is mostly Muslim) to attend the holy mass. Surprisingly, the church was full and not only with old people or with foreigners, as I thought. The organ is obviously made by Klais, local organ maker, and the organist played nice improvisations, but the chosen chorals were relatively modern and the tempo was relatively slow for the viennese standard.

I had to find a way to spend some hours before going to the airport, so I decided to visit the museum of the history of the German Republic after 1946. Very interesting! Highly recommended. Another part is in Berlin, where I’m going to very soon (again, fourth time this year). For fun, I’ve done the mandatory test to get the German nationality and I passed it, with 14/15 correct answers about the German constitution and history. I wonder if I could be so successful in an Austrian or Italian equivalent. In the museum, I had also lunch, with a Wiener Schnitzel. Already nostalgic? Yes, so much that I was at the airport 4 hrs in advance! The journey back was simply perfect, the flight was on time, my luggage was one of the firsts to come, I run to the train, and in less than a hour I was at home. Vienna, I missed you!

Wherever I go... I find a pipe organ.

Conclusion

Bonn is indeed similar to Brussels, for the style of some buildings and the inefficiency of the information system, but it is also typical German, for the habits of the locals (also integrated immigrants) and the general order. Bonn seems to be stuck in the 60’-70’. The whole city is a construction site because the infrastructures are old. What was innovative 50 years ago is now obsolete and insufficient for the modern traffic. I imagine that Germany invested a lot on Bonn when it was the capital city, but after the reunification moved to the update the former GDR, leaving Bonn far behind. Bonn is also a bit more "Mediterranean" than other German cities, due to the inheritance left by the Romans, the influence brought by French and Belgians, and the "frivolity" induced by the presence of the Catholic Church. Cologne, a few km away from Bonn, is much more German!

Versione italiana:

Approfittando di un convegno, ho visitato Bonn per la prima volta. L'ex-capitale della Germania è un cantiere a cielo aperto e sorprendentemente disorganizzata per essere tedesca. Le infrastrutture sono ferme agli anni '60-'70 e la stazione centrale ricorda la Gare du Midi a Bxl. Ciononostante, ci sono caratteristiche che la rendono pienamente tedesca e gradevole da visitare. A parte il centro storico, interamente pedonalizzato, non dimenticherò la casa natale di Beethoven, la ditta organaria Klais ed i suoi strumenti ed il museo della storia della Germania dopo il 1945.

Il viaggio in sé non è stato dei migliori, costoso e almeno all'andata problematico, con ritardi, cambiamenti e perdita del bagaglio (consegnato la sera successiva). Il ritorno è andato meglio, anche se l'aeroporto di Colonia-Bonn è un caos. L'airbnb prenotato non è andato a buon fine, per cui ho dovuto ripiegare su un hotel relativamente costoso, periferico ed in un quartiere paragonato a Molenbeek (ecco che ritorna Bxl). Il soggiorno non è stato affatto disagevole ed il quartiere, benché popolato da parecchi immigrati, è tranquillo e funzionale come mi aspetterei in qualsiasi città tedesca.